How many years does it take a neighborhood to recover from tragedy? Four years ago, central Seoul's multicultural Itaewon neighborhood suffered an unspeakable accident, when over 150 people were crushed to death in a crowded alley. In the two years following the disaster, there was an atmosphere of cautious commemoration under the watchful eye of a heavy police presence, as people worked through their trauma — and also feared judgment for being too celebratory. The area may never be the same again, but Halloween 2026 seemed a step closer back to business as usual. Halloween decorations were popping up through the neighborhood over the past few weeks, and hardcore Christians were out protesting the holiday and its perceived queerness. But it was not until Friday that the crowds really started showing up. On Saturday, the main road through Itaewon was closed off to road traffic — a precautioun that should have been taken four years ago — handing the street over to tens of thousands of pedestrians celebrating the holiday. Making room in the streets helped significantly to reduce the p